I had never been east of Budapest. Eastern Europe held that mystery one finds whenever traveling for the first time to a new place. That mystery was exciting for me, just as it was with Budapest. My perception of it had been formed during my childhood and adolesence. I knew it had changed a lot since the Soviet bloc fell apart in the 1990’s, but it remained an area of deadly turmoil and ancient disputes. It was going to be an eye-opening 10 days.

Altar at Church of the Holy Cross in Osijic, Croatia.

Our mode of transportation was a Uniworld river cruise, a great way to experience any venue! The added bonus for this trip was the addition of an on board travel photography class complete with a world renowned, multiple award winning photographer; Mark Edward Harris. He was also on our 2016 cruise in Bordeaux, France, so I knew I was in for some serious work and lots of fun!

Following the Danube river from Budapest, Hungary to Belgrade, Serbia. (Google maps)

We left Budapest and headed to Croatia on the Danube. The Danube runs through the Northern part of Croatia. It does not flow close to the resort filled Adriatic coast. Our trip was through an agricultural area, much more akin to my Minnesota upbringing.

Croatia was first declared an independent state in 879. Because of it’s location it currently borders Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Bosnia-Herzegovena, and Montenegro. Consequently it has had its share of disputes, most recently with Serbia from 1991 to 1995. Now it is a republic, member of the UN, NATO, the EU and more.

Dining room after lunch at organic farm.

I saw first-hand how political upheaval affects a vibrant, historic part of the world. It made me sad. In Osijic, Croatia, the old section of town has the pock marks of artillery evident in several buildings (see photo above). The ornately decorated Church of the Holy Cross was a stark contrast.

We also visited the Croatian organic farm, yes, the only one. It felt very warm and serene. Lunch was served in a rustic log cabin style lodge. They served us a “typical” Croatian country lunch including bread with lard (always a favorite of my grandfather), garlic pork liver, nettle soup, meatballs in tomato sauce, mashed potatoes, coleslaw, and bread with honey. The meat, honey, flour, veggies all came from the farm. I tried all of it, of course. The farmer told us about constructing all the buildings, including the house, from trees found in the woods. I felt more positive about Croatia’s future after that enjoyable visit.

The Vukovar water tower, reminder of a brutal conflict.

That afternoon on the way back to the ship we passed a tall, bombed out water tower. It was the Vukovar water tower, once featuring a restaurant at the top. Now it stands as a monument to war, having been hit by artillery more than 600 times! Vukovar, Croatia, witnessed even more devastation than Osijic. It was the site of a massive tank battle on a street, now rebuilt, but with an empty feeling.

The Sava and Danube rivers meet at the Belgrade Fortress.

Our next stop was Belgrade, a much larger city than the Croatian towns we visited. The Danube and Sava rivers meet at Belgrade, (pop. 1,230,000) so it has always had important military and industrial value. It was a fascinating study in the old ways trying to swallow up progress, or so it seemed.

Icon of Christ in the White Palace Chapel, with a well placed bullet (forehead) from a Communist soldier.

Like many Eastern European cities, Belgrade has seen destruction and rebuilding since it’s beginning in the 6th century B.C. Belgrade has been a battle site in about 115 wars. The most recent major destruction took place in WWII. In November of 1945 Marshal Tito proclaimed the Federal People’s Republic of Yugoslavia which continued until 1997. In 1999 the city was bombed again in the Kosovo war. Numerous, large protests have taken place throughout history, including over half a million in the streets to topple Slobodan Milosevic in 2000.

Walkway from Chapel to living quarters at the White Palace.

We spent quite a bit of time at the Belgrade Fortress (3rd century B.C.), meandering the city streets and touring the White and Royal Palaces compound. The compound was was completed in 1937 for the Serbian royal family. They live there now. Marshal Tito and Slobodan Milosevic also used it during the Communist time.

Marshal Tito’s perch for screening movies in the White Palace.

Why am I telling you all this? I heard from our guide about the bad feelings that still exist, especially with older generations, between Serbia and Croatia. I saw Communist era buildings that were touted as better than the ones that are being built now, (although the small older apartments house one or two families each). I saw shells of buildings left as reminders of NATO bombing. I saw large gatherings of Romani (gypsies) holding a second-hand sale beneath a freeway. I saw newly built green spaces and shopping malls. It was a confusing place.

Romani second-hand sale beneath a Belgrade freeway.

Belgrade turned out to be one of those places that really makes you think about how cruel the world can be. The great people there continue to strive toward progress, wealth and peace, however the past occasionally seems to get in the way.